General Check-up in steps

General Check-up in steps by peter_larsen:

I had 50+ flights on my first stock motor before I had any problems with it.. Since you've replaced the stock head the first thing you need to do is make sure the heli is mechanically setup before even trying to spin the rotor up. This means checking everything is straight, no binding, swash is leveled, servoarms are 90deg at mid throttle, zero pitch at mid stick, gear mesh (main and tail) and so on.. If one or more of these things are not setup properly the heli won't fly or it will fly badly..

If you disconnet both motors and set the PLT and PIT knobs to 12 o'clock and center all the trims except the throttle trim (should be all the way down) and set the throttle to mid stick.. Then check your servo arms to see if they are close to or are 90deg to the servo, if not this needs to be fixed.. Adjust the arms to get as close to 90deg to the servo as possible trying to keep all three at roughly the same angle..

Next you need to level the swash and make sure the antirotation pin is centered in the antirotation bracket.. When this is done, look at the blade grips from the side and make sure the flybar is level, you should now have 0deg or close to 0deg pitch at mid stick.. If not then you need to fix this as well.. Loosen the blue "T-Block" and slide it up or down within the grove in the main shaft to get 0deg pitch if possible, if still not at 0deg you need to adjust the lenght of the push rods going from the swash to the mixer arms.. Lengthening them will move the blade towards negative pitch and shortening them will move the blade towards positive pitch..

When all this is done fine tuning can be done with the PLT and PIT knobs.. Use the PIT knob to fine tune the pitch at mid stick and the PLT knob to set how much pitch travel you need/want..

Finally, push the throttle stick forward to see if the swash is moving down and the pitch goes positive.. After these steps if the motors still burns out you might suspect a faulty 4-in-1..

Attention Beginners! Very IMPORTANT POST!

First of all welcome to the community of the 22e pilots!

I HIGHLY recommend that you carefully take Radd's tutorial at http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html

This is VERY important. You should not attempt to throttle-up the helicopter before you start attending Radd's school.

Radd helps you develop a technique that will make you hover after just three days. Just follow Radd's directions CLOSELY.

That's all!

Replacing Servos? (Part 2)

Here is some more information about servo replacing:

24/6/2007, by JD:

Oh, and let me tell you something I just found out. people talk about servo's and speed or quality, my cheap servos work well in a hover and under control. But when you loose it or are going fast and apply some control input like forward when you going backward, the added stresses cause the load to stop the heli from reacting because the servo is not strong enough. So, as you get better you will find that yes, at hover you have good control and then you loose that control when you speed up. Its the strength of the servos.

I have to be very careful with my helis with the stock servos, they don't react when you need it most. Just something to think about if you ever go to get servo's. The Hitec ball bearing 56's are great on my shoguns but the align servo's on my TREX are sluggish. On the walkera 22's I would buy the Hittec 50's. And yes I have a set, but I have not put them on yet. But I will.

2/12/2006, E_Heli:

Futaba S3110 servo fits right in, the price is couple bucks more than the blue one but very good quality and torque. The only down side is the arm travel in the opposite direction and you have to fool around in the radio setting.

Other info I've collected about servo alternatives for the 22e:

Tower Pro SG-90 : Mods have to be done...

Blue Bird BMS-306 and BMS-306BB (ball bearing) : they might require some modification of the servo holders.
Hitec HS-50 or HS-55 which is stronger but also a bit bigger so some mods to the servo holders may be needed.. Otherwise this is a very good servo bought by many heli flyers..

The Hs-55's from Hitec fit well with VERY little modding to be done.....you just need to shave off a tiny bit of the searvo holders , and they slip right in..
God Bless the Dremel company!!

Setting the knobs on top of the Transmitter

Posted by JD:

"Simply put the right knob sets where you lift off like, 1/3, mid or 2/3 throttle stick input. The left stick sets how much the pitch changes as you move the throttle stick.

I like to set the right knob where my heli is just about to lift at mid stick and one more click lifts it.

the left knob adjusts how smooth you lift and come back down.

I always suggest unplugging the motors and turning on the heli and spin each of the knobs left and then right looking at throttle off, mid throttle and full throttle for each of the four settings leaving the knob your not testing at 12:00 (straight up). Then you will see what they do. So you would limit the travel with the left knob if you are jumping up to fast. Anyway start at straight up on both. Then set your lift off point then adjust the left knob, to make the heli go up and down smoothly (normally should be between 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock.

JD"

Replacing Servos?

Posted by NY_Rebel:

"If you replace servos with other than the stock servo there are a few things you should know.
1. Keep all three servos the same (same brand and part #). The reason for this is, servos of different makes and/or part #'s move at different rates and since collective moves all three servos in unison, any difference in movement will drastically affect the flight characteristics.
2. Almost all the servos on the market move in the opposite direction from the stock servo.

Now, if you go with other than stock walkera servos there are two ways this can be fixed.
One way is to disassemble the servo and change the wires on the pot. This is described in detail elsewhere in this thread. Do a thread search and you should be able to find it. You only need to do this on the elevator servo, since the aileron servos can be manipulated to move either direction...

To accomplish servo movement reversing without fear of decimating your brand new servos...simply swap sides on the aileron servos mounting position (move the wires on the Rx is easier if servos are already in holder).
The elevator servo is also easy to manipulate, reverse the position of the servo mount on the main frame, mount the servo with it's shaft on the opposite side and then flip the #1 dip on the Tx to get the correct directional movement. See pic below that shows new servo mount orintation.

You may find some of the info in this thread beneficial when reversing the servos by changing their mount orintation. Post #2 has info about servos. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5398512/tm.htm "

Cyclics & Pitch

Posted by JD:

"Cyclic Controls - Those controls which affect the helicopter's attitude in two directions namely rolling left and right (known as the aileron control) and moving the nose up and down (known as the elevator control). Confusingly, on an aeroplane, the elevator is said to control the 'pitch' of the aircraft. For this reason, with model helicopters we simply refer to the elevator so that it is not confused with the pitch of the main rotor blades


Pitch - More correctly called Collective Pitch, with helicopters this normally refers to the angle of the main rotor blades. Positive pitch creates lift. (Negative pitch creates lift if you are flying upside down.)

The glossary of terms is in TREX Tuning.

JD"

Balancing blades

Balancing your heli's blades document collection.

By E_Heli:

"Here's some links:

http://www.myhelicopters.com/balance.htm
http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rotor-blade-balancing.html
http://www.trextuning.com/bladebalancing.php"

Download the file and rename to balancing.pdf
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/thumbnails/257221/Yv66057.jpg